1 year ago

Hampshire Trousers

If you follow my instagram this is not news to you, but just in case you are not, here it is. I am pretty sure I have gone crazy over Hampshire Trousers by Cali Faye Collection! I first noticed a lack of casual yet work appropriate pants in my wardrobe during the first week of Me Made May. Although I have made a couple of pants in the past, what I really wanted and needed were a casual pair of pants that was almost khaki like trousers. I love those! Unfortunately I can never find ones that fit me. I have big booty, smaller waist and thick thighs. I love all those parts of me, but it is impossible to find something in RTW that fits all those parameters at the same time.

Olive Hamshires 3

I have seen Hampshire Trousers pattern before and I did think about buying it. But after fitting my Thurlows I decided I would use Thurlow pattern for all my pants needs. I was too scared to try anything else. Well, last week I decided I am too lazy to alter my TNT pattern to look like this so I went ahead and bought the Hampshire Pattern. After all, fitting another pair of pants is a good experience for me, right?

Olive Hampshires1

The pattern comes in 6 sizes – XXS to XXL. The only issue that I see is that there are 2 PDF files for various sizes. One is for XXL-M and the other for L-XXL. So if you have to grade between M and L that may be an issue. Otherwise, I didn’t notice any potential shortcomings.

The pattern comes with great illustrated instructions. For more difficult areas, like welt pocket and zipper, there are full step by step tutorials on Cali Faye Collection website. I’ve used them a couple times and they definitely helped me figure out the steps. When you buy the pattern you also get a handy alterations guide to help you with the fitting process.

Olive Hamshires 2

I didn’t spend a lot of time fitting the pants. After seven Thurlow muslins, I was pretty clear on what adjustments I need to make pants fit me. I also realized that pants can be over-fitted and some wrinkes are needed for wear and comfort, especially if the fabric does not have stretch.  My adjustments were:

  • Shortened the front crotch curve by 1/2″
  • Lengthened the back crotch curve by 1″
  • Took in 3/4″ at the back waist seam
  • Scooped out the seat curve ~1/4″ (low seat adjustment, but I prefer to refer to it as Bubble Butt Adjustment)
  • Lengthened the leg by 4″ (I am a giant!)
  • Added belt loops

I still think I may need a Full Thigh adjustment judging by the wrinkles at the back of my thighs. But overall I am pretty happy with the fit so far. By the way, Closet Case files has a great post on common pant fitting adjustments. After taking a bunch of classes on pant fitting and doing a lot of reading on the subject, I think Heather’s post is one of the best ones out there!

I made my first real pair pictured above (after my wearable muslin) in light olive cotton twill. It is quite stiff and does not have any stretch. I imagine these pants wearing into something extremely comfortable with time. By the end of the first day of wearing them they loosened up and became even more comfy. Also, they were really wrinkled, as you can see in the pictures.

The construction of the pants is really cool! It is different from that of Thurlow pants and I quite like it. I think it is quite similar to jeans construction steps. I can only judge from instructions, since I haven’t made jeans yet, but I certainly read the instructions to make them a few times! I am a geek. There is a lot of topstitching involved. Inseam and crotch curve are topstitched flat. I love it!

The zipper is constructed very interestingly as well. I can’t quite describe it without making it confusing, but I do like these construction steps. Again the construction steps seem more similar to those of Ginger Jeans rather than Thurlow Trousers. Ha, you can still see my blue fabric marker in the photos above!

The welt pockets are my favorite! I used to hate them, but I found the tutorial on Cali Faye’s website extremely useful. It is different from Sewaholic’s welt pockets steps though and it kinda blew my mind a little bit when it all came together in the end. I love learning different techniques for the same feature!

Gray Hampshires 4

I loved these trousers so much that I made another pair right away! The one above is made out of suiting mix that I had leftover in my fabric stash. I made a dress out of it back in the day, which turned out extremely itchy. I gave the dress away but kept the leftover fabric thinking I will make a skirt one day. Well, it turned out I had enough to make a pair of pants! Barely enough, but I managed.

Gray Hampshires

There is not much to say about this pair of Hampshires. They turned out to be a mix of work trousers and khaki trousers, not to dressy yet not too casual. I quite like them even though I haven’t worn them out yet. Here are a few pictures of the insides and details:

Gray Hamsphires Back

I am pretty much in love with these and I want to wear them all the time. I already have a light beige cotton pair cut out and ready to be put together. I am also planning to modify the pattern into a pleated cropped pant which I plan to make out of black tencel twill.

This was a long post, and I tried to cover everything I can think of regarding these pants. But let me know if you have any other questions!

Love,
Anya

P.S. I am not sure why the pictures are a little fuzzy… I must have messed up my camera settings.

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8 comments

  1. These both look amazing on you! I think you’ve really nailed the fit, and you add a tiny bit to the back thigh, but honestly I think they look great as is!

    Reply
    1. Thank you! I agree, I think just a tiny bit is needed at back thigh. Thank you for confirming it! I am always unsure with fitting and it’s nice to hear a second opinion 🙂

      Reply
    1. Thank you!! You made my day because of course right after photographing them I started doubting the pants and I haven’t worn them yet. Now I will definitely wear them 🙂

      Reply
  2. Great post, Anya! It’s nice to hear insight on this pattern from someone with a lot of pants-making experience.

    I’m doing the monthly Project #SewMyStyle challenge, and the Hampshire trousers are on the calendar for October. I just finished the Cali Faye Pocket skirt for #SewMyStyle and was frustrated by the directions (like many other sewists), so I had some concerns about sewing another Cali Faye pattern. But it sounds like this one is a winner! Cool.

    Question – does the pattern call for non-stretch fabric?

    Reply
    1. Thank you so much!!

      That is so awesome! I was thinking about participating in it, but decided against it. I tend to commit to too many things 🙂 I actually really enjoyed this pattern. Mind you it was the very second pant pattern I’ve made and I haven’t used it again, but I remember I liked it. I did find the online tutorials very useful! Also, if you are at all looking for a chino trousers pattern, Chi-Town Chinos by Alina Design are also great. And the instructions on that pattern are magnificent!

      I just checked the pattern and it calls for medium weight woven 🙂

      Reply

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